Stone Patio, Walkway, GardenAdding Curb Appeal To Your Home

Adding ambiance to your yard can greatly increase your resale value and property value.  A traditional flagstone patio can be a great addition to just about anybody's yard. The material is attractive and durable, and nicely complements a wide range of other landscaping features. Many varieties of stone are available at landscape and masonry outlets. Slate, a metamorphic rock, is one of the best-known types. Bluestone, which is cut in northeastern U.S. quarries, is what we used on this project. It's a sedimentary rock with a very engaging color. When installed, both types yield a relatively smooth, flat surface.
Yet another option is fieldstone, the rocks removed from the soil when land is cleared. Though truly distinctive when installed properly, its finished surface is much rougher than flat stones like slate and bluestone. Flat stones usually are sold in nominal thicknesses from 1 to 3 in. and in 6-in. width and length increments, starting at 12 x 12 in. and going up to 2 ft. 6 in. x 2 ft. 6 in. Anything larger or thicker is usually a special order. Prices vary substantially. We bought ours in upstate New York, where 1-in.-thick bluestone costs about $4 per square foot delivered.
 
Stonework can certainly be beautiful and can add value to your property. Unfortunately, it's not very easy to install. Most of the problems are in the material itself. Unlike consistent building units, like bricks or cast concrete pavers, natural stone comes in variable thicknesses. When you order nominal 1-in.-thick stones, for example, you get pieces that have one flat side but that vary in thickness from as little as 1/2 in. up to as much as 1-1/2 in. Because your goal is to create a finished surface that is as flat as possible, this means you have to custom fit the bottom of each stone in the sand base, which can be extremely time-consuming even after you get the hang of the job.
 
The material is also pretty heavy. One-in.-thick bluestone weighs about 14 pounds per square foot. That means that a 1-in.-thick, 2-ft. 6-in. square piece tips the scales at about 87 pounds, and a 2-in.-thick piece of the same dimensions weighs about 175 pounds. For most patios, 1-in. stone is fine. But if you plan to drive over the stone, you'll have to use material that's at least 2 in. thick. If installation speed and light work are important to you, then bricks or concrete pavers are probably the better choices.

Build Your Own Natural Stone Patio

Layout and Site Preparation
Because flat stones are sold in standard width and length dimensions, you can create just about any pattern from a simple all-one-size approach to a more complicated pattern like the one we used here. Just keep in mind that stone dimensions can vary by as much as 1/2 in. from the nominal designation. A 12 x 12-in. stone could be 11-1/2 in. on one side and 12-1/2 in. on the other. These differences in size are accommodated by the grout joint between stones, which is usually 3/8 to 1/2 in. wide. Work out your pattern on graph paper before you place an order. Try to minimize the number of stone pieces that will need to be cut to size on-site. 
If you're laying a patio that is going to abut the house, like ours did, plan to slope the installation away from the house so water can drain off. A 1-in. drop for every 8 ft. of run is a good minimum figure.
Proper base preparation is a matter of some debate. A plurality, if not a majority, of sources recommend at least a 4-in.-thick layer of compacted gravel covered by a 2- to 3-in. layer of compacted sand. If a patio were to be completely exposed to the weather, we would omit the sand and just use a 6- or 7-in.-thick gravel base because it has better drainage.
On this job we used the sand layer because the patio was covered by an enclosed porch above, and because it made it much easier to fit the stones in place.
Begin site preparation by removing the sod in the patio area. Then spread gravel on the site using a shovel and rake . Next, attach screed guide boards to the house and to stakes driven into the ground on the other side . The boards along the house should be level from side to side. The opposite boards also should be installed level from side to side, but located lower than the house boards to accommodate the necessary slope mentioned above.
Next, cut a notch in both ends of a screed board to fit over the guides. Pull the screed across the gravel until the surface is flat. Add or remove gravel from areas as needed. Once the surface is flat, compact it with a plate compactor, available at tool rental stores for about $50 a day. If you haven't used one of these machines before, it's a good idea to work in the center area of the patio site first. These machines can be hard to control, so it's smart to get comfortable with your machine before you work close to the house. Make at least three passes over the entire area, overlapping passes by half a plate width each time.
Add a few inches of sand and spread it with a shovel and a rake. Then screed it to finished depth and flatness with another screed board, using the guide boards to support the ends. Compact the sand with a plate compactor as you did with the gravel.

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STEP 1: Remove the sod from the entire patio area and fill the depression with 3 to 5 in. of gravel. Rake it smooth. PHOTOGRAPH BY STEVE WILLSON

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STEP 2: Attach screed guide boards to the house on one side and to stakes driven into the ground on the other side. PHOTOGRAPH BY STEVE WILLSON

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STEP 3: Notch the ends of the screed board to fit on the guides. Pull the board over the gravel until the entire surface is flat. PHOTOGRAPH BY STEVE WILLSON

 
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STEP 4: Compact the gravel using a vibrating plate compactor, starting in the middle of the patio area. Three or four complete passes should be enough.

Laying the Stone
Before you begin placing stones in the sand, you must establish a square corner. To do this take a long, straight board and place one end against the house where the patio corner will fall. From the corner point, measure over 6 ft. along the house wall and make a mark. Then, measure 8 ft. along the board from the house and make another mark. Have someone hold the end of a tape measure at the house mark and adjust the board until the 8-ft. mark intersects the 10-ft. mark on the tape. Drive a stake at the end of the board and tie a string from the house corner to this stake. Tighten the string so there is enough space to slide a scrap wood block between it and a stone below. By aligning the edge of the end stones with this string, you'll ensure that your installation starts square. 
With your square starter string in place, slide the corner stone into position. Check its height by sliding your scrap block between the string and the stone. Then check for level from side to side. To make the stone fit properly, lift it up and either add or remove sand from the base using a trowel.
Lay the next stone in your pattern. Maintain a joint of about 1/2 in. between the stones, and check that the matching faces of the stones are flush and that the second stone is level with the first from side to side. As you add more stones, always make the edges meet flush and check the overall slope frequently, especially as you work farther from the house. A long board with a 4-ft. level on top should keep you in the ballpark.
Cutting stone is easy--though very loud and messy--using a circular saw with a masonry blade that has diamond chips bonded to the edge. These blades cost $20 and up each and can cleanly cut through 1-in. stone in a single pass. They work much better and last longer than the commonly available aluminum oxide abrasive blades.
Once all the stones are laid, align the grout joints using a pry bar or flat bar. You'll have to make some compromises on this step because not all the joints will line up perfectly. Just favor the ones that will be more visible and let the others fall where they fall.
You can grout the joints with either sand--which we used--or stone dust that's available from your stone dealer. Spread the material you choose over the patio and use a push broom to fill the joints. Pack the sand or stone dust into place with either an ice scraper or a mason's trowel like the one we used. Some joints will take more material than others. When all the joints are full, sweep any of the excess off the patio, then rinse the surface with a gentle spray of water from a garden hose. Avoid spraying a strong stream right into the joints because this will flush out the packed sand or stone dust.

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STEP 5: Cut appropriate notches in a new screed board to fit over the guide boards. Then pull it over the sand. PHOTOGRAPH BY STEVE WILLSON

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STEP 6: Establish a square corner by holding a board against the house and adjusting it until it forms a 6 x 8 x 10-ft. triangle. PHOTOGRAPH BY STEVE WILLSON

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STEP 7: Replace the corner layout board with string. Put the first stone in place and check its height with a spacer block. PHOTOGRAPH BY STEVE WILLSON

 
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STEP 8: If the stone rocks or is not properly aligned with the layout string, lift it up and add or remove sand with a trowel.

 

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STEP 9: Once the first stone is laid properly, move on to the next. Level it from side to side against the first stone. PHOTOGRAPH BY STEVE WILLSON

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STEP 10: As you add stones, frequently check the slope away from the house. It should fall at least 1 in. for every 8 ft. PHOTOGRAPH BY STEVE WILLSON

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STEP 11: Cut the stone using a circular saw with a diamond-chip blade. A 1-in.-deep cut can be made in a single pass. PHOTOGRAPH BY STEVE WILLSON

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STEP 12: Once all the stones are in place, use a pry bar or a flat bar to adjust the joint alignment between stones. PHOTOGRAPH BY STEVE WILLSON

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STEP 13: Spread sand over the entire patio and sweep it into the joints between the stones using a push broom. PHOTOGRAPH BY STEVE WILLSON

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STEP 14: Pack the sand tightly into the joints using a mason's trowel or an ice scraper tool. Sweep in more sand as necessary.

Optimizing Space:Sliding Door Installation

This is a recent project that i finished in my home and i used this article that i have posted from another website to guide me during the process.  i cant remember the website but when i do i will get back to you...

A pocket door is a great way to pick up usable floor and wall space that normally would be occupied by a door's swing. You can buy and install a pocket door for as little as $100, and the kits are readily available at home centers and lumberyards. There is one catch, though: You'll have to tear out a portion of the wall to make room for the split studs that replace the wooden ones and for the track on which the new door hangs. The demolition can be a bit messy, but it's straightforward. 

Measure Once...

First, check that there's enough room in the wall — you need a rough opening that's just over twice the width of the door. Then, determine if the wall is load-bearing or simply a nonstructural partition. 

Load-bearing walls typically are near the center of the house and run perpendicular to the floor joists (check joist direction in the basement). Doors in these walls will have headers — usually laminated beams — over their openings. Installing a pocket door in a load-bearing wall requires replacing the old header with a longer one. Creating the opening for the new header may require temporary ceiling support while the header goes in (you may want to consult a pro for this). 

Cut the Opening
	<> Cut through the nails to remove the door and jamb assembly. Use a reciprocating saw and metalcutting blade.  2 > Use a wood-cutting blade to remove pieces of wallboard. Avoid cutting too deep.  <> Remove a section of drywall above the door to allow you to frame in a new header.  4 > To remove the existing header, slice through the nails that fasten it to the studs.  <> Cut a Length of Straight 2 X 4 to form the new header. nail it at both ends and screw it to the cripple studs.

MATERIALS: Door, Sterling 1430 Series Pocket Door Kit, 2 x 4 lumber, drywall, drywall tape and compound, jamb kit, molding

Check to see if the wall contains wiring or plumbing. A wall with pipes isn't a good candidate for a pocket door. If you have attic and basement access, it should be easy to reroute electrical cables. Just keep in mind that all wire splices need to be made in a permanently accessible electrical box. Concealed wiring is easy to detect with an inexpensive, noncontact voltage sensor, such as the Live Wire GVD-505A from Gardner Bender (about $16). 

Prep and Framing

Doorjambs aren't nailed tight against the studs, but spaced with wooden shims. To remove the existing door, first pull off the molding, then slip a reciprocating saw blade into the gap and cut through the nails clustered around the shims. Use a metalcutting blade or a demolition blade that is rated for cutting wood with nails in it. With the nails clipped, tip the door from its opening. 

Make exploratory openings in the wall to check for any obstacles you may have missed. Tip the saw down for shallow cuts, and take the drywall out between the studs. Remove the drywall above the header, but stay a few inches below the ceiling to avoid extra finish work later. In ourinstallation, we were able to leave the drywall in place on the inside. 

Use a reciprocating saw to remove the partition header and cut away the studs to make room for the pocket door's new framing. Nip the nails between the studs and the soleplate, then determine the height of the new header before cutting the stud tops to length.

Structure of a pocket door.

Framing

The header height depends on whether you need a new soleplate. If the floor covering above the subfloor is minimal, you can secure the kit's split-stud brackets directly to the floor. We had a carpet and pad, so we used a 1 x 4 plate to avoid having to cut the door for it to clear the carpet. To determine the new header height for a kit like ours, figure the length of the new door, plus 31/4 in., plus the height of the soleplate, if any. Cut the stud tops to the length needed to support the new header at the correct height. 

Determine the rough-opening width and install a new stud this distance from the existing stud on the opposite side. Nail or screw the new header in place, then cut and fit the soleplate to the floor. 

Hanging the Door
	<> To cut the track to length, use the mark on it that corresponds to your door size.  7 > Mount the track in the rough opening by screwing the brackets to the studs.  <> Tip the split studs into the floor brackets and nail the tops of the studs to the header.  9 > Install the door hardware and hang the door. Adjust for level and lock the adjustment nuts.

 

Hardware Installation

The pocket-door track is a metal channel with wooden nailing strips on each side. The channel is marked for various door widths so it's easy to cut it to the right length. Cut through the nailers with a handsaw and use a hacksaw on the channel. 

Attach the channel to the studs with end brackets, and check the channel for level. Then, snap the split studs into their floor brackets, tip the studs upright and nail them to the header. Check that the studs are plumb, and nail the floor brackets to the soleplate or floor. 

Mount hangers on the top of the door, and slide the wheeled carriages into the track. Hook the hangers onto the carriages, and adjust the assembly until the door hangs plumb. Then install any latches and pulls. 

Finishing

Secure the drywall with panel adhesive and screws. Apply drywall compound, embed tape in it, then strike off excess compound. Allow it to dry, sand it, then apply the next layers of compound in the same way. 

To trim our door, we bought a jamb kit and ripped two pieces of it to 13/8 in. wide for our 15/8-in.-wide door. We installed these at the top and side of the door opening. Complete the project by cutting and installing the door's trim casing. 

Taping Drywall
	<> Set a screw gun to recess the screw-heads 1/16 in. and secure the drywall.  11 > Apply drywall tape and multiple thin coats of compound over all seams.

 

Do It Yourself: Redoing the Tile in a Room

Placing tile to revitalize a room or wall in your home can be an overwhelming project to tackle for the novice do it yourself enthusiast.  It requires patience but it can be down by anyone with the proper guidance.  I consulted do it yourself. com when i was redoing the tile in my bathroom.  It gave step y step instructions which i am using in this article.

PREPARE THE BASE FLOOR: 

1. Start by removing all wax, grease or oil with a good, environmentally safe chemical or cleaner. Remember that adhesives will not adhere where oil or grease is a part of the base.


2.          Next, plane down high spots and re-nail any loose boards on wood floors. Any rough spots will gradually show through the floor tiles and may ruin the appearance.


3.          If the original floor is in poor condition, it may be necessary to cover it with sturdy plywood or un-tempered hardboard.


 

When laying a new floor, nail every 4" along the edge and 4" apart in all directions. Stagger the panels so you don't have four corners together. Start in the center of the panel and work toward the edges. Use coated or ring-shanked nails, and be sure heads of the nails are even with board level.

 

START FROM THE EXACT CENTER OF THE ROOM

The first run of floor tile should be started from the exact center of the floor, so use these steps to locate the center of the room:

4.          Locate the exact center on each wall and mark that center spot.


5.          In rooms with offsets or irregularities, ignore the irregularities in the measuring process.


6.          Hold a chalk line at the center position on facing walls, as marked and snap it on the floor. The exact center will be marked at the point where the two lines cross. The example shows a room 15'10" x 14' with a slight offset.


7.          To check for accuracy, measure 3' in one direction and 4' in the opposite (90°) direction. When measured from true center, the distance from the 3' marking to the 4' point will be exactly 5'. If this is not the case, re-measure and re-chalk each wall to find the true center. This is essential for a quality finish.

 MAKE A FINAL CHECK WITH LOOSE TILE:

8.          Start at the center point and lay loose tiles along marked lines from center, as shown. This procedure provides an opportunity to make adjustments if the center is not correctly marked. 


9.          After you have laid a full run of loose tiles along the chalk lines toward each wall, measure the remaining distance between the edge of the last tile and the wall on each run.


10.     If the distance between the last tile and the wall is less than two inches or more than eight inches, you will end up with an extremely narrow cut of tile. 


To correct this, adjust the centerline that is parallel to the wall by 4-1/2" (half a tile) closer to the wall and remark.

PREPARE THE PLAN FOR TILE APPLICATION:

11.     Open all cartons of tiles that are to be used. Conveniently arrange them so you select tiles out of each carton on an alternating basis. This will help to prevent any noticeable color variation in tiles boxed together.


12.     Next, study the tile patterns and plan your laying pattern. If the tiles are all one color, plan the pattern according to the grain.


13.     You may choose to alternate the run of the patterns (as shown), or you may decide to lay patterns in one direction. Whichever pattern you choose, it is critical to plan in advance.


14.     For tiles of varying colors, plan your design carefully before applying the first tile.


This will influence your selection of starting tiles.

APPLY THE TILE CEMENT:

The next step–now that you have correctly marked the center of the room and selected the tile designs and patterns–is applying the adhesive for the tile. If you are using self-sticking tile, skip this section.

15.     Read all instructions for the product and follow carefully. Begin by spreading an even coat of adhesive over one-fourth of the floor. Most adhesives are applied with a notched trowel, but some are still applied with a brush or roller.


16.     In most cases, floor tile cement will dry to the proper consistency in about 15 minutes. However, your exact time may vary depending on humidity, temperature, etc., in the room where you are applying the tile.


17.     After about 15 minutes, place your thumb onto the cement. The cement should feel tacky but should not actually stick to your thumb. If it does stick, allow a little longer for proper drying.


When tacky but not sticky, the cement is ready for the application of the tiles.

LAY THE FLOOR TILES:

18.     Start laying the tile at your markings in the center of the floor. It is important that the first tile is exactly square with the lines. If the first tile is started wrong, all other tiles will also line up incorrectly.


19.     Be sure each tile is butted firmly against the previous one, leaving no gaps.


20.     Do not attempt to slide tiles into place. Lay each tile firmly into position on the cement.


21.     Proceed by laying tiles alternately, according to your plan, toward each wall as illustrated. This helps to counteract expansion and contraction of the tiles while enhancing the appearance.


22.     To cut the border tile easily and accurately, place a loose tile squarely over the last field tile in the row. Then take another tile, butt it against the wall and mark, as illustrated. Cut the tile along the marked line using ordinary scissors. In a cold room, you should warm tiles slightly before cutting.


23.     The cut tile will now fit securely into the border space. Be sure this tile is placed face-up and at right angles to the grain of the tile below it. This ensures the correct pattern when it is laid.


24.     When it becomes necessary to fit tiles around pipes or other obstructions, simply cut a paper pattern that fits around such obstructions and trace the pattern on the tiles. Then cut with ordinary scissors and place around obstruction.


25.     You may want to consider adding a vinyl cove base of matching or contrasting color to add to the appearance and to make the floor easier to clean.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Do It Yourself: Refurbishing your bathroom: Replacing a Toilet

My toilet was set crooked and had a hole in it but i was afraid to tackle the replacement alone. So i consulted www.ronhazlton.com.  Ron is used to people looking at a toilet and saying, "I'm not touching that!" But Ron reassures the novice do it yourself person,  that it is really not a difficult job. Here are a few things that you will need to complete the project:

Tools and supplies: 
      Sponge 
      Bucket 
      Rubber gloves 
      Wrench 
      Utility knife 
      Putty knife 
      Plumber's putty 
      Pliers 
      Socket wrench 
      Level 
      Screwdriver 
  

Materials: 
      New toilet (including hardware for assembly) 
      New water supply line 
       Wax ring

1. Disconnect water supply:

• The first step was to turn off the water supply to the tank. The shut off valve was located on the wall behind the toilet.

 

  

• Next, they removed the water from the tank by flushing and then holding the drain valve up. 
  

 

  

• They would need to soak up the rest with a sponge. Unscrew the float to get it out of the way.

 

  

• It only takes a minute or two to remove the remaining water from the tank.

  

• Next, they would need to empty the standing water from the bowl. Put on a pair of latex gloves for the task at hand and began sponging. Although the water in the bowl appeared dirty, Ron reassured us that it was actually the scale that came out of the bottom of the tank and emptied into the bowl.

  

• With all of the water emptied, use an adjustable wrench to loosen the nut that attached the water line to the tank. 
  

  

• then pull the old line free.

 

 

  

2. Remove old toilet: 

• They were now ready to detach the old toilet from the floor. The toilet was held in place by two bolts. Lift off the decorative cover to expose the bolts, which in this case were very badly rusted.

  

• Normally they would remove the bolts with a wrench, but these had rusted through so completely that they were no longer holding the toilet to the floor. Actually the bead of caulk at the base of the toilet was the only thing holding the toilet in place. They used a utility knife to cut the seal.

  

• They bent their knees and carefully lifted the toilet straight up.

 

 

  

3. Remove old wax ring: 

• When the toilet was lifted out, the old wax ring was left behind on the floor. Toilet wax rings are made out of bees wax and they create a very good seal between the bottom of the toilet and the flange on the floor. It would need to be replaced.

  

• Remove the wax ring with putty knives and then scrape the remaining wax from the flange.

  

4. Replace water supply line:

• Before you carry in the new toilet, replace the water supply line. Ron almost always recommends this when installing a new toilet or sink. Older lines can often lose their seal after being disturbed.

• They carried in the new toilet bowl, which was made of vitreous china, the same thing you're dinnerware is made out of.

  

5. New wax ring:

• Unwrap the new wax ring. The wax ring had a slightly smaller plastic ring on it. They set the ring in place on the bottom of the overturned toilet with the plastic part up, away from the toilet.

Pack pieces of plumber's putty into the slots on the flange.
The putty helped hold the two new bolts upright that were placed in the slots in the flange.
6. Replace new toilet: Next, carefully lower the new toilet into place so that the two bolts extended through the two holes in the base of the toilet.
Once the toilet was in place, they pressed firmly down on the bowl. Becareful not to rock or wiggle the toilet but to just press it straight down with as much weight as possible. The weight would compress the wax ring and give them the seal they needed. If the toilet was rocked or twisted then the seal may easily break and they would have to remove the toilet and start all over again.
Next, Kelly slipped a nut cover base over each bolt…
…followed by a washer…
…and finally a nut.
The bolts were pre-scored, so that the excess could be broken off easily with pliers. If the bolts had not been scored then they would have had to cut them off with a hacksaw.
Finally, they snapped the decorative caps in place over the bolts.
7. Water tank: There were three bolts on the underside of the water tank. These would be dropped directly into the three holes that were behind the toilet bowl.
Ron helped line up the bolts with the holes while Kelly and Kate carefully placed the tank on the bowl and gently dropped it down into position. The tank was designed to fit on the bowl with a watertight seal.
Ron reached inside the tank and pushed the bolts down so they extended all the way through.
With the bolts fully extended, they slipped on the washers and nuts and then tightened them with a socket wrench. As they did this, they also checked to ensure that the tank was level.
They kept tightening each bolt and compressing the rubber grommet underneath until the toilet tank was level.
8. Toilet seat: It was simple to install the toilet seat. It attached just behind the bowl with nylon bolts.
The attachment was made with a cylindrical nut, shaped so that it can jam itself into the hole and it won't spin around as the bolt is tightened. Ron began by screwing a nut on the bottom but he explained that you couldn't finish tightening it from the bottom. There was a slot on the top of the bolt. Ron used a screwdriver to tighten the bolt from the top. The nut below did not spin because of the way it was shaped.   Finally, place the tank lid on the new toilet for the final crowning moment of completion.